When the Gaja family decided to stop acquiring fruit from the other growers and bottle only estate-grown grapes, in 1961, it was a bold and difficult move. It would help to ensure a high standard of quality, but it also meant that for the first time in the winery's history, it would not be able to produce a Barolo. In 1988, nearly three decades after that fateful decision was made, the GAJA winery purchased a 30-acre farm in Serralunga d'Alba and rechristened it Sperss. It lies on the eastern side of the Barolo appellation where the oldest subsoils reside. 94% Nebbiolo and 6% Barbera, fermentation on the skins in stainless steel tanks lasted three weeks, then the wine aged 12 months in barriques followed by 12 months in large oak casks. This wine received 95+ scores and rave reviews all around. Stephen Tanzer gave it 96-97 saying "Very good deep red. Multidimensional aromas of raspberry, flowers, mocha, menthol, orange peel, licorice and underbrush, plus a whiff of petrol that reminded me of riesling. Densely packed and powerful but without any undue weight, showing terrific finesse and mouthfilling breadth to its flavors of red fruits, menthol and minerals. Superb inner-mouth tension here. Has the strength of fruit to support the powerful tannins on the unflagging finish. This should gain in complexity in bottle for two or three decades." and Wine Spectator scored it 97 saying "Fragrant, with incense and sandalwood notes framing the core of cherry, accented by hints of leather, tobacco and tea. Exhibits purity and density despite the formidable tannins. The finish is long and complex, revealing fruit and spice elements. Best from 2018 through 2035."